Topicmongolia
22 entries, newest first.
The Caravan on the ApronA western airfield on the way home: one Cessna on the concrete, a tower with no hurry, and the pull of small aviation.The Window Over UlaanbaatarA city hotel after weeks of felt walls: night glass, distant lights, and a silhouette between curtain and dark.Plan B, ConsideredAn hour at the airport pricing the sensible way home, and the argument the Niva won without being present.On the ManeUp through the horse to the viewing platform: standing in the statue's mane with the steppe running to the sky.The Rider From the SteppeFirst sight of the Chinggis colossus: forty meters of stainless steel rising off the grass, flags straight in the wind.The Bed at the Far EndA ger's warm interior, lamplight on felt and lattice, and one traveler asleep before the tea was cleared.The White LakeTerkhiin Tsagaan at evening: water the volcano made, a shore with no schedule, and the trip's stillest hour.The Crater at KhorgoAn extinct volcano's perfect bowl, larches on the rim, and standing at the edge of old fire country.A Rainbow Over the GersAfter the afternoon squall: a full arc over the village, the Niva steaming by the fence, and unearned perfection.Khorkhog, With FingersFestival mutton cooked with hot stones, eaten the only correct way, grease to the wrist and no regrets.Leading the RacehorseNaadam day: five-year-old jockeys, a horse that tolerates me, and leading a racer to the line by its rope.Spinning the WheelA brass cylinder full of prayers, one push of the palm, and outsourcing devotion to good machinery.A Hundred and Eight StupasThe wall of Erdene Zuu: whitewashed stupas against the grass sea, counted twice, magnificent both times.Behind the MonksKharkhorin at last: young monks crossing the yard of Erdene Zuu, and arriving in history's boot prints.Gold on PaperThe day's yield on a creased sheet: a pinch of flakes, two hands steadying it, and the price of everything visible at once.The Ninja MinersArtisanal gold at the sluice: the informal economy in rubber boots, watched politely from the rim.The Jack and the GrassFirst flat of the trip: the Niva on the jack in open steppe, a wrench, an audience of nothing, and honest work.Yaks at the CrossingA ford shared with the shaggiest traffic in the valley, and the correct etiquette of not hurrying anyone.Milk for the RoadThe libation lesson: a wooden spoon, an arc of milk to the morning, and a blessing performed badly but sincerely.Blue Scarves at the PassA second ovoo in sunshine, a khadag over the palm, and learning the courtesy of high places.Camels on the New AsphaltThe oldest caravan meets the youngest road: Bactrians on fresh tarmac, and right of way settled instantly.The First OvooAcross the last border in rain: a cairn with rags of blue, three stones added, and the Niva pointed east.